There is no shortage of Chinese restaurants in the Cincinnati area. They are an American staple and have been since Chinese railroad workers first arrived in the United States in the mid-1800s. In November, one new restaurant, Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine, joined the ranks.
Harry & Shan serves predominantly Chinese-American dishes, such as lo mein and egg drop soup, with some dishes from other Asian countries, such as pad Thai. Unlike many new restaurants in the Cincinnati food scene, the food at Harry & Shan isn’t necessarily innovative or unique. It doesn’t need to be. Harry & Shan serves Chinese-American food at its best. It’s comforting, familiar, affordable and absolutely delicious.
The location of Harry & Shan, 627 Main St. downtown, may be familiar to many Cincinnatians as it is the former location of Deme Kitchen, a previous downtown mainstay. Deme Kitchen closed its Main Street doors in September of last year. (They are currently transitioning into a catering company operating out of Findlay Kitchen while they consider their next move.)
Harry & Shan’s appearance can best be described as “unassuming” or “inconspicuous.” Located next to the historic Bay Horse Café, Harry & Shan has a dark blue façade and limited signage; the window features the name and phone number of the restaurant, a menu and a couple of photos of specials. It would be easy to walk past the restaurant and not give it a second thought, but to do so would be to your detriment. The interior is slightly more glamorous — red Chinese décor and a series of beautiful, historic-looking nature prints — but only slightly. It doesn’t need to be glamorous; the food does all the talking here.
The first time I ate at Harry & Shan, I tried vegetable lo mein ($14) and veggie Singapore noodles ($14). Lo mein is one of my go-tos at any Chinese restaurant, so my standards were high. Harry & Shan did not disappoint. The lo mein was savory and delectable, with perfectly-sautéed mushrooms, broccoli, peppers, onions and cucumbers.
I had never had Singapore noodles, nor had I even heard of them, before that day. Despite the name, Singapore noodles are a Cantonese dish and a mainstay in Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong. (The reason they’re called Singapore noodles is up for debate.) They’re seasoned with curry powder, giving the dish a delicious, spicy flavor and a bright yellow color, and mixed with sautéed vegetables such as mushrooms, broccoli, onions and carrots. I cannot overstate how wonderful and flavorful the Singapore noodles were — I was thinking about that delicious dish long after I’d finished eating it.
Although I was still dreaming of those Singapore noodles a week and a half later, I convinced myself to try something different the second time I went to Harry & Shan. I tried vegetable fried rice ($14), another one of my favorite Chinese-American dishes, and scallion pancakes ($5). The scallion pancakes had a savory aroma, a light, flaky texture and a flavor somewhat reminiscent of an onion ring, but, in my humble opinion, much, much better. The vegetable fried rice, mixed with peppers, green onions, mushrooms, scrambled eggs, broccoli, cucumbers and carrot slices, was delicious and savory as well. It reminded me exactly why I love fried rice so much.
The third time I stopped in, I couldn’t resist getting my beloved Singapore noodles again, but I also got veggie spring rolls ($3) and the veggie house noodles ($14). I don’t normally like spring rolls, but a little voice in the back of my head told me to get these. I’m glad I listened. Filled with cabbage, carrots and vermicelli noodles, they were warm, savory and delightful, a perfect little snack. The house noodles, served in a savory sauce and mixed in with a vegetable medley, were delicious as well, but more similar to the lo mein than I had expected. That’s not a bad thing, but something to keep in mind if you’re looking for variety.
The fourth time I visited Harry & Shan, I was just in the mood for a snack, so I got the veggie gyoza ($6). Gyoza, a Japanese version of a Chinese dumpling called jiaozi, are small dumplings with thin, delicate skins and a rich filling. Although I preferred other dishes to this one, I have never met a dumpling I didn’t like, and the gyoza at Harry & Shan did not break that streak. They weren’t particularly filling, but they would make a good snack or accompaniment to other dishes.
Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine is unpretentious in the best way possible. It’s the kind of place you stumble upon or learn about through word of mouth — not through press fanfare, social media or snazzy advertising. (In fact, Harry & Shan’s social media presence is minimal; I could only find a Facebook page.) It’s the kind of place you’re proud to know about. It’s the kind of place part of you wants to tell the world about and part of you wants to gatekeep. Whether you’re looking for a quick, affordable lunch while you’re working downtown, a snack on a late Friday night (it’s open until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays) or a new go-to for Netflix binge nights, Harry & Shan Asian cuisine is the place for you.
Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine, 627 Main St., Downtown. More info: harryshanasiancuisine.com.
This story is featured in CityBeat’s June 25 print edition.
This article appears in Jun 25 – Jul 8, 2025.