When Chef Casey Hopkins appeared on my laptop screen via FaceTime, she had just gotten home from a Thursday shift at Longfellow. She was wearing a popular merch item from the bar – a gray sweatshirt emblazoned with a four-eyed, winking red cocktail – and she had her two little dumplings running amok in the background.
Having seen Hopkins’ packed bag ahead of an upcoming trip, her pug, Pierogi, had spent the day sulking. Her mood hadn’t improved. Meanwhile, Momo the French bulldog intermittently popped into the bottom right corner of my screen, seemingly oblivious to Hopkins’ impending departure and just hankering for some attention.
“ I’ve always cooked,” Hopkins said, occasionally patting Momo’s head and minding Pierogi’s grump-fueled antics. “I’ve always loved food. And Longfellow was the first real place that I was a cook, I was a chef, I was in the kitchen. So all of my real culinary experience has been within the walls of Longfellow in the last 8 years.”
Working with people has pretty much been a focal point of any line of work Hopkins has found herself in. As a teenager, her gigs included a face painter at the Cincinnati Zoo, an assistant for studio dance classes, and a camp counselor. Her first restaurant job was at a Chipotle, but even before then, she was no stranger to culinary environments.
“I was very close with my neighbors growing up,” Hopkins said. “They had a restaurant on the West Side, so I was always in a restaurant, and I was always at their house, in their kitchen learning how to cook.”
At that point, Hopkins was “just part of the family,” as opposed to staff, looking after the family’s children every night at the restaurant. Over time, she’s worked serving jobs, and picked up some kitchen work during her time at Chicago Gyros and Northside Yacht Club.
It was during her time at the yacht club that Casey met future Longfellow owner (and recent second-time James Beard nominee) Mike Stankovich. Stankovich opened his nationally-ranked bar in February 2017, with Chef Evan Wallis at the helm of the kitchen. Wanting to involve Wallis in more of the kitchen management side, Stankovich began seeking additional members for the kitchen staff – with a few qualifications in mind.
“Longfellow’s kind of a unique kitchen in the sense that it’s visible to the public, and a lot of people that work in kitchens don’t wanna have to talk to people,” Stankovich said. “Whenever we’ve had to hire for that position, we’ve had to try to find the right kind of personality that wants to talk to people, but also make food under people watching them. And Casey has that personality and does well at it.”
Hopkins ultimately joined in March 2018.
“She had a long history of working in bars and restaurants, and just was a good worker, and learned quickly, and was willing to take advice,” Wallis said of Hopkins.
Longfellow was an all-hands-on-deck operation, with team members picking up different responsibilities to keep the busy bar running. According to Wallis, as he got busier assisting with the bartending side of Longfellow, Hopkins took on more of the food service side.
When Wallis ultimately moved on from Longfellow, Hopkins was selected to take his position. Stankovich cited her preexisting tenure with Longfellow, her culinary ability, and her love for the work as reasons.
“She had to learn some stuff,” Stankovich said. “But any job anyone takes, you have to learn some stuff. So that’s not a deterrent, at least for me, to hire somebody. I’d rather teach someone to do the right thing than have them think they know everything.”
And not three days after transitioning into the position, the COVID-19 pandemic lockdowns began. What followed was a pivot to an all-takeout operation for Longfellow’s loyal base of customers – and a need to churn out a whole lot of egg salad.
“ We did have a couple regulars in that time who were buying, like, two pints a week of Longfellow egg salad, which is amazing egg salad,” Hopkins remembered with a laugh. “I love the egg salad! But also, who’s eating a quart of egg salad in a week?”
For any challenges, the trial by fire ended up being an unintentional masterclass for the rising chef.
“When we opened back up inside, however long that was after, it was like, ‘Cool, alright, I know how to work this space, and make it work in a large scale. Now I can refine it,’” Hopkins said.
Wallis, who now owns College Hill bar Big Chill with his wife, Hannah Wheatley, also saw some serendipity in the circumstances.
“ I think it was a nice time, because it was a natural time to reset and let her do her own thing, and kind of see how things went from there,” Wallis said.
While she had to learn what Stankovich called the “medial” aspects of operating a kitchen – like getting acquainted with sources for ingredients and ordering them in the right quantity – Stankovich witnessed key growth in her confidence in skills she already possessed.
“She has whatever it takes to just make food taste good, but I think her kind of realizing that, or accepting that, was a big step,” Stankovich said.
Longfellow’s ever-evolving menu has steady items – the charcuterie board, the Scrap Sandwich, the egg salad (figures) – but Hopkins and her team still get plenty of freedom to conceptualize and experiment. Menu comings-and-goings have been born of trial-and-error, nostalgia and everyday cravings. Case in point: the bestselling mushroom melt.
“Our mushroom melt just happened one day because I wanted pizza, but I didn’t wanna buy pizza,” Hopkins said. “So I was like, ‘What do we have in here that can make me something that tastes reminiscent of pizza?’ And it worked out perfectly.”
Hopkins categorizes the mixed menu into “plates” and “snacks,” striving to make the latter “elevated comfort food.”
“The snack side in my brain is just like, ‘What are you eating in your cool aunt’s basement when she’s hosting a house party,” Hopkins said. “Like, what is your awesome Aunt Kathy putting out on her table to feed you snack-wise?’”
Enter hanky pankies, a Midwestern staple that Hopkins considers “an homage” to her own (presumably awesome) Great Aunt Jenny. A blend of ground meat, spices, and logs of glorious Velveeta cheese piled on bread, they’re not your everyday printed menu item, but one that catches eyes and elicits joy nonetheless.
”It’s a fun thing to have on the menu,” Hopkins said of this family dish she’s long enjoyed annually on Christmas Eve. “People see them and they get excited.”
Many of Longfellow’s ingredients are sourced locally. Hopkins also taps into resources a stone’s throw (or streetcar ride) away, from Avril Bleh to Findlay Market. And she cultivates a small spice garden right outside the bar near its outdoor seating area. If you opt to sip your signature Shiso Painkiller outside, you might just be sitting near the namesake plant involved in its creation.
Food is Hopkins’ passion, yet her recipes aren’t something she seems to agonize over.
“At the end of the day, it’s just food,” Hopkins said. “I mean, ‘It’s just food’ is such an understatement, but it’s gotta be good food. We wanna make good food, and it’s not the end of the world if we gotta change something.”
For any menu leeway, however, there are some challenges literally inherent to the establishment’s architecture. According to Stankovich, due to preservation requirements in the Over-the-Rhine neighborhood, Longfellow wasn’t permitted to install a kitchen hood within the historic building.
As a workaround, Stankovich drew inspiration from his work in the industry in New York City, where chefs built perfectly efficient kitchens without the need to install pricey hoods. Stankovich also explains the pivot was inherent to Longfellow’s design – its character channels that of a Japanese izakaya, casual, sometimes compact bars with kitchens that serve up small plates and bar snacks alongside drinks. And the Longfellow kitchen team has made it all work from the outset.
“Part of how we developed our menu was what we were able to do,” Wallis said. “And that was something that I think me, Mike, and Casey all enjoyed – having limited resources and still seeing what you were able to do.”
These days, during busy times, Hopkins operates in what she approximates to be a three-foot by two-foot space, not to mention the other bartenders in motion around her (she’ll also bartend, when needed). Hopkins and her team work with an intentional set of tools that includes a hand crank meat slicer, hot plate, toaster oven and steam table.
“ I think it is a testament to that you don’t need a big, fancy kitchen or all the crazy hullabaloo to create good, comforting food,” Hopkins said.
Hopkins and her colleagues, Chef Mike Lizama and Chef Thearvy Long, continue to do their work in full view of patrons – which, while sometimes stressful, isn’t necessarily a negative for Hopkins.
“ A lot of cooks and a lot of chefs love being behind their closed door,” Hopkins said. “They love the fact that they don’t have to interact. I personally love it, ’cause I’m just a schmoozer. I love talking. I’ve made so many great friends and met so many awesome people by just being at my meat slicer and someone being like, ‘Is that this?’ And me being like, ‘No, it’s actually this.’”
Evidence of these connections can be found in a lineup of tcotchkes near that same meat slicer. What started as a photograph of one of Hopkins’ dogs and a shot glass emblazoned with aliens has grown into a collection of small offerings from patrons. Everything from baby photos to an E.T. figurine keep Hopkins company at her station.
Hopkins said the broader Cincinnati culinary scene Longfellow operates in is robust, yet not necessarily cutthroat.
”We do have this huge booming culinary scene, but nothing feels insanely competitive against each other,” Hopkins said. “Like, we’re all doing it together. We’re all there for one another. If one of our buddies up the street needs an extra bag of towels for the night, guess what? We got you.”
While an establishment of her own someday isn’t totally off the table, Hopkins deems herself “a short term goal girl,” and keeps herself grounded in the present as she considers her future.
“ The goal right now is to just keep ripping, and keep learning, and just keep having fun, because that’s the coolest thing I think about my job is that I have a lot of fun doing it,” Hopkins said.
“She’s a crucial part of Longfellow,” Stankovich said of Hopkins. “But if she ever needed to move on or grow her career or something, I would support it, too. So I’m supportive of her outside of just her standing in the kitchen.”
For all of the industry experience she’s amassed over time, Hopkins still acknowledges that she never imagined being in her role today.
“ It is really cool to just be floating around with serving tables, working in random bars. And then now, you know what I do? I’m a chef now, and I run a kitchen side of a bar that’s very successful, because I work with great people, we have great guests, and I have the openness to learn and soak in new skills.”
This article appears in March 4-17, 2026.