Maybe everyone feels this way about where they live, but I think my Gaslight Clifton neighborhood is the best ‘hood in the city. It’s a little like a college town, one that is surrounded by top-notch medical and academic institutions; another cool neighborhood (Northside) just next door; the outdoor delights of Burnet Woods Park and nearby Spring Grove Cemetery and Arboretum; and super close to Findlay Market, OTR and downtown.

But it’s been a challenge for Clifton to attract and sustain what I consider top-notch restaurants. That’s not to say you can’t get a good meal in Clifton, but we haven’t had many places that draw folks from other neighborhoods. In other words, a destination restaurant. Until now, I think, with the debut of Kiki on Ludlow, an affordable, casual establishment that brings an exciting cuisine to our corner of Uptown Cincinnati.

Owner Hideki Harada, formerly at the helm of Kaze in OTR, operated the Japanese gastropub Kiki in College Hill for more than five years. Along the way, he and his wife, Yuko, earned a James Beard Foundation nomination, and the restaurant made it into an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

I discovered Kiki in College Hill soon after the pandemic and was immediately smitten. The food was so good, interesting and approachable. The vibe resonated with me, too, the way they made clever use of limited space that included a comfortable bar. When I passed along the news that the couple planned to move Kiki into the recently vacated Habanero’s on Ludlow Avenue, my neighbors literally whooped and cheered. Toward the end of summer, the promise became reality, and, at least in the early going, the neighborhood has given the newly renamed Kiki on Ludlow a warm welcome.

There’s nothing stuffy or forbidding about the place, and the price points are significantly lower than other establishments I might consider as destination restaurants. The space isn’t quite as comfortable as the College Hill location was, but Kiki’s general manager Ryan Back told me that over the next year or so, they expect to add enhancements to the interior. Whereas the former restaurant had three separate dining areas, Kiki on Ludlow is one big, high-ceilinged room with an open kitchen and no room for a traditional bar. After deep cleaning the space, the new tenants painted the interior and exterior, added lighting, and didn’t do much else. The goal seemed to be to get the place open for business ASAP. 

To serve as head chef in the new venture, Harada hired Logan Wells, formerly chef at Pho Lang Thang at Findlay Market, another great spot for Asian food — Vietnamese, in that case. Sushi was not an emphasis at College Hill but, happily, there’s now a selection of both basic and specialty rolls along with nigiri and sashimi.

Also new at this location is lunch service Tuesday through Saturday from a limited menu that consists of five or six bowls — ramen, poke and a rotating vegetable-based bowl. I’ve tried and liked both the poke bowl and the kimchi ramen bowl. Ramen (including a pork belly version) is also available at dinner. The restaurant opened without a liquor license but by the time you read this, they should have acquired the ability to offer sake, beer and wine.  

You’ll have many more options at dinner than at lunch, ordering from four menu sections. “Cold” selections include two nice salads; one based on seaweed and the other a delectable Napa Caesar. The section headed “Kushiyaki” (skewered and grilled seafood, meat or veggies) offers wagyu beef, sea scallops, salmon chunks or shishito peppers. I’m fond of salmon skewers, and my boyfriend often orders kushiyaki scallops. The addition of shishito in this category — something for vegetarians/vegans — reflects other features of this menu, highlighting the health profile of much Japanese cuisine. It is seafood and vegetable oriented, offering many options for vegetarians and vegans. But meat eaters won’t go hungry.

In fact, a couple of pork preps stand out, including a plate of three steamed buns served with a generous portion of marinated pork, oven-roasted in a sweetened soy sauce. Also, on the plate — an accompaniment to several other dishes — is a side of yumitsuki cabbage slaw, which you can layer with pork on the buns. As an alternative to pork buns, you can get jackfruit buns: roasted and sauced jackfruit with cabbage slaw and three steamed buns.

One of the most popular hot dishes is pork gyoza. “They are pan-fried in a crepe-like slurry,” Back said, “and so the order of five come connected in a thin and crispy layer of fried dough.” He added, “I frequently recommend these to first-time [visitors].

“There’s a cauliflower dish I like, perfect if you want a veggie side for the table. “It’s a generous, shareable half head of cauliflower, flash-fried and topped with a curry aioli, pickled jalapeño and red onion and cilantro,” Back told me. You’ll find both the cauliflower and pork gyoza in the “Hot” section of the menu, along with curry pan, deep-fried dough stuffed with mashed potato, onion and carrot, and chicken karaage, succulent fried morsels served with your choice of five sauces.

Dessert consists of two special offerings from Dojo Gelato: miso caramel stracciatella gelato and strawberry yuzu sorbetto. Be sure to ask whether one of Yuko Harada’s cheesecakes is available, and if so, try a slice. Back said this about the treat: “Like a lot of our food, Yuko’s cheesecake stands out by being very simple and high quality. Most of what makes them good is Yuko’s knowledge of ingredients and technique. Her cheesecakes are almost always gluten-free and use a simple graham cracker crust.”

Over the next year or so, Back said they hope to create a small sushi bar adjacent to the kitchen area, and perhaps commission some art to adorn the walls. It can get quite noisy during the dinner hours, a problem common in so many restaurants these days. It’s not an easy fix but I hope they will find some way to tone it down here. The front of the house is especially cacophonous in the evenings, making it hard to converse with a server or your tablemates. You might ask for a table toward the back of the room, which is a little quieter. 

Reservations are a good idea for dinner, but you should be able to stop for lunch without advance notice. It will take a few visits to sample the menu and find your favorites. Meanwhile, welcome to the neighborhood! 

Kiki on Ludlow, 358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton. More info: kikicincinnati.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s Oct. 1 print edition.

The post [REVIEW] Kiki Makes Clifton Sing appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

While I have no stats to back it up, there’s something about tiki glasses that just makes drinks taste better.

When I found out that the team behind Onolicious was opening 10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill right next to Ziegler Pool, my interest was instantly piqued. A deep, dark part of me gets weak in the knees for mini cocktail umbrellas. I needed to see this establishment billing itself as a mini island escape for myself.

It’s a sluggish, post-Fourth of July weekend Monday, with storms on the horizon and no forthcoming vacation days marked on my calendar. I decided to treat myself to a getaway. Maybe with a tiki drink in my system, the holiday doesn’t have to be over.

When I walk in, I’m greeted with the promised island theme. The space is filled with netting, floral curtains and lanterns. The ukulele-heavy playlist is complemented by the sounds of kiddos splashing and lifeguard whistles in the pool right outside.

At my table, I’m prompted to order via QR code. Scrolling through the menu, I have to individually click on each food or drink item in order to see exactly what it is. With a pretty robust drink menu — my tiki drink fervor that made me want to look at everything  — I find it a little annoying to have to keep toggling between menu options on my phone. 

What’s more, the online platform has a message stating that QR code ordering isn’t currently available at the time, despite signs posted around the restaurant saying otherwise. However, the bartender/server doesn’t leave me hanging, and as soon as I let them know, they promptly take care of my order and check in consistently throughout my visit.

I opt for a Painkiller ($13), one of my favorite cocktails that just so happens to come in a tiki glass (plus it’s a Monday, so there is much pain to kill). And not only does it arrive in a tiki glass – it also comes topped off with a small umbrella (swoon). I love the cocktail’s housemade coconut cream, yet it manages to lean more into the citrusy side with the pineapple and orange juice, which I gladly welcome.

For starters, I opt for the Wahine Salad ($8) (the ciabatta croutons caught my eye) and Kahalu’u Calamari ($14). The salad is pretty straightforward content-wise, but the miso sesame vinaigrette actually ended up sort of stealing my heart. It has a subtle miso flavor with the slightest kick. I also love the extra bite from the salad’s sweet chili cucumber slices. 

While the calamari came out lukewarm, I love the light, airy mochiko flour batter – and the little mound of fried sesame noodles that accompany the dish. The calamari comes tossed in a delicious “secret sauce” that I’d be very interested in learning more about. But the bowl of strong garlic sauce it’s served with sort of neutralizes all of the flavors of the calamari, and I prefer it without it.

As I perused the menu for entrees, I noted vegetarian alternatives for the Kanaka BBQ Burger and the Local Guido sandwich, as well as a la carte meats. I went for the Kahuku Shrimp Sando ($19 for a full sandwich and side of fries), a hearty merging of mochiko flour-battered shrimp, garlic butter, smoked gouda, miso sesame slaw and sriracha mayo on a Sixteen Bricks ciabatta bun. 

I think my jaw drops slightly when I’m brought the massive sandwich, whose fresh bread is soaking up the small pool of garlic butter forming on the plate. To make a little room on the platter, I start by nibbling at the house fries and spicy ketchup — both delicious. 

The flavor combination of the sandwich is excellent — a little smokiness from the cheese, a little bite from the slaw, a little kick from the mayo. While the shrimp could have used a little more seasoning love, the delicious mochiko flour helps the sandwich steer clear of being too heavy.

Though thoroughly stuffed to the gills, tiki drink drained, and starting to undergo the drowsy effects of having consumed so much butter, I’m somehow still feeling up to demolishing a shaved ice. Based on the bartender’s recommendation, I get half-mango syrup, half-strawberry syrup topped with a “snow cap” (ie, drizzled with condensed milk) ($7).

Maybe it’s illogical to get more fatty foods when I’m already full with all that glorious butter, but the die has been cast, and my shaved ice is melting. I dig in, and the first thing I notice is how “real” the syrup tastes. The strawberry syrup, in particular, is a deep, blood red instead of the ubiquitous stoplight color you see in your average snow cone, and it isn’t sickly sweet — it’s a great, refreshing ending to the meal, made just a little richer with the creamy condensed milk.

Had it not been a Monday, I definitely would have opted for more tiki drinks, and before the summer ends, I can see myself coming back to 10th Island to try a few others that caught my eye (tiki glass-based or otherwise). 

Is it a true getaway? Not necessarily — while it has thematic decor and a curated menu, you won’t forget the city waiting right outside the door. But 10th Island is something new and different from the more pub grub-y offerings on the streets adjacent, and it owns its theme. Perhaps that’s a getaway enough in these Cincinnati summer months. 

10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill, 213 Woodward St., Over-the-Rhine. More info: 10thislandtiki.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s July 23 print edition.

The post [REVIEW] Mini Umbrellas and Island Energy: 10th Island Tiki Bar Brings Tropical Escapism to Over-the-Rhine appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

It might not be on your radar, but there’s some tasty food being served on the far east side of downtown. That’s thanks to a new restaurant in the lobby of a hotel that was unfamiliar to me. The hotel, open only since January of this year, is called “voco the Clair,” which I learned is part of a worldwide chain among the IHG mega-family of hotel chains. On the ground floor of said hotel, on the edge of the city and within sight of I-71, Pennyflower Bistro occupies a large dining room that services hotel guests from breakfast through dinner. An adjacent bar and lounge fill out the space.

The bar and restaurant feel exactly like what they are — an extension of a postmodern hotel lobby. But here’s the rub: the cooking by the restaurant’s young chef, Jacob Benavides, could make a detour to the out-of-the-way restaurant worth your time. At dinner recently with five friends, I found many more hits than misses among the menu items we sampled.

Our server, Rachel, shared her opinions about everything from the best house cocktails to the don’t-miss dessert standout, and we tried many of her suggestions. While most of my companions stuck with their usual cocktail choices, my boyfriend and I both tried Rachel’s favorite, a tequila and mezcal drink dubbed Smoked Butterfly. Its balanced flavors and booze-forward punch helped get the evening started with a group of folks who hadn’t gotten together in a while. To accompany our drinks and conversation, we selected from among 10 starters and salads, and for the most part, they didn’t disappoint.

My watermelon crudo, listed as a starter (or “snacks and bites” in the menu lingo) instead of a salad, tasted like summer on a plate, with slices of chilled melon in a light dressing of nước chấm — a Vietnamese sauce — along with mint, cilantro and a sprinkling of candied peanuts. Another starter, spicy tuna bites, wasn’t too spicy and was a hit at our table. Several golf ball-sized rounds of tuna mixed with mashed potatoes came breaded and deep-fried, served with a flavored mayo. The house version of beef tartar was quite good, as well. We shared a plate of sliced 16 Bricks sourdough bread along with these goodies and waited for the next course.

That wait was inexplicably rather lengthy, which surprised me considering that the dining room was far from packed on a rainy Friday night. When dinner did arrive, though, it was worth the wait. (With one exception, which I will get to.) My luck continued after the watermelon appetizer with a perfect halibut entrée. It’s the kind of dish I would be happy to order repeatedly, somehow light and filling at the same time. The fish, cooked just right, sat in a lovely beurre blanc sauce and shared the plate with creamy pureed potatoes and crisp sugar snap peas. A bit of salmon roe gave the dish a bit of salty umami. 

Two of my companions tried one of the chef’s signature dishes, Crispy Mushroom Lasagna. I couldn’t quite imagine how lasagna could be crispy, but the generous slice of layered noodles and filling did have crunchy edges. Texture contrast is such an important part of cooking, and this dish nails it. The filling includes porcini mushrooms, duxelles (a mushroom-onion-herb reduction) and cream sauce. No meat, but you won’t miss it. I hope this entrée and the halibut will stay on the menu year-round.

The one disappointment came in the form of misses on the bone-in pork chop, which two of the men at our table had ordered. One chop arrived almost bloody and the other, overdone. Although the server offered to redo their orders, they declined. I’ve had the same issue with pork chops at other restaurants and stopped ordering them because they are so hard to get right.

A few days later, when I talked with Chef Benavides by phone, he vowed to work on perfecting those chops, noting that a bone-in cut can be especially challenging. (If the meat at the bone is cooked medium, then the outer meat will be too well-done.)

We finished our meal by sampling two desserts, crème brûlée and Rachel’s strong recommendation, an ice cream dish called S’mores. She steered us in the right direction. Whereas the brûlée was fine, though nothing extraordinary, we relished every bite of vanilla ice cream, Italian meringue, chopped dates and chocolate ganache. Coffee and a couple of dessert drinks topped off a satisfying meal.

A Texas native, Chef Benavides honed his talents at high-end California restaurants before coming to Ohio a few years ago, eventually accepting a position as chef de cuisine here at Boca, under David Falk. Within the past year, the opportunity arose to helm his own kitchen at Pennyflower. That’s quite a resume for a 30-year-old, who now looks forward to making this restaurant an important part of Cincinnati’s social and culinary firmament, operating within what he calls an eco-friendly hotel.

“I was genuinely surprised by how vibrant and tightly-knit the culinary scene is here,” he said. “There’s a lot of talent in this city and a clear sense of pride around hospitality, but also a willingness to experiment, which I love.”

“Being able to bring young people along, to help develop them for the future” is at the heart of his own ambitions. He said he tries to make his kitchen a welcoming place for the staff, full of music, humor and compassion.

 He acknowledged that “keeping fine dining sustainable is a challenge,” but added that “Cincinnati’s curiosity and support for independent restaurants gives us an opportunity to build something special, something that reflects both the city’s roots and its evolving tastes.”

Short term, he alluded to “future events in the works” at Pennyflower and suggested that potential diners “stay tuned for some fun experiences coming soon.” He didn’t divulge details, but from my limited experience thus far with the goodies coming out of his kitchen, I do plan to stay tuned. You might want to, as well.

Pennyflower American Bistro & Bar, 701 Broadway, Downtown. More info: pennyflowerbistro.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s July 9 print edition.

The post Review: This New Cincinnati Hotel Restaurant is Serving Dishes Worth the Detour appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

There is no shortage of Chinese restaurants in the Cincinnati area. They are an American staple and have been since Chinese railroad workers first arrived in the United States in the mid-1800s. In November, one new restaurant, Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine, joined the ranks. 

Harry & Shan serves predominantly Chinese-American dishes, such as lo mein and egg drop soup, with some dishes from other Asian countries, such as pad Thai. Unlike many new restaurants in the Cincinnati food scene, the food at Harry & Shan isn’t necessarily innovative or unique. It doesn’t need to be. Harry & Shan serves Chinese-American food at its best. It’s comforting, familiar, affordable and absolutely delicious.

The location of Harry & Shan, 627 Main St. downtown, may be familiar to many Cincinnatians as it is the former location of Deme Kitchen, a previous downtown mainstay. Deme Kitchen closed its Main Street doors in September of last year. (They are currently transitioning into a catering company operating out of Findlay Kitchen while they consider their next move.) 

Harry & Shan’s appearance can best be described as “unassuming” or “inconspicuous.” Located next to the historic Bay Horse Café, Harry & Shan has a dark blue façade and limited signage; the window features the name and phone number of the restaurant, a menu and a couple of photos of specials. It would be easy to walk past the restaurant and not give it a second thought, but to do so would be to your detriment. The interior is slightly more glamorous — red Chinese décor and a series of beautiful, historic-looking nature prints — but only slightly. It doesn’t need to be glamorous; the food does all the talking here.

The first time I ate at Harry & Shan, I tried vegetable lo mein ($14) and veggie Singapore noodles ($14). Lo mein is one of my go-tos at any Chinese restaurant, so my standards were high. Harry & Shan did not disappoint. The lo mein was savory and delectable, with perfectly-sautéed mushrooms, broccoli, peppers, onions and cucumbers.

I had never had Singapore noodles, nor had I even heard of them, before that day. Despite the name, Singapore noodles are a Cantonese dish and a mainstay in Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong. (The reason they’re called Singapore noodles is up for debate.) They’re seasoned with curry powder, giving the dish a delicious, spicy flavor and a bright yellow color, and mixed with sautéed vegetables such as mushrooms, broccoli, onions and carrots. I cannot overstate how wonderful and flavorful the Singapore noodles were — I was thinking about that delicious dish long after I’d finished eating it.

Although I was still dreaming of those Singapore noodles a week and a half later, I convinced myself to try something different the second time I went to Harry & Shan. I tried vegetable fried rice ($14), another one of my favorite Chinese-American dishes, and scallion pancakes ($5). The scallion pancakes had a savory aroma, a light, flaky texture and a flavor somewhat reminiscent of an onion ring, but, in my humble opinion, much, much better. The vegetable fried rice, mixed with peppers, green onions, mushrooms, scrambled eggs, broccoli, cucumbers and carrot slices, was delicious and savory as well. It reminded me exactly why I love fried rice so much.

The third time I stopped in, I couldn’t resist getting my beloved Singapore noodles again, but I also got veggie spring rolls ($3) and the veggie house noodles ($14). I don’t normally like spring rolls, but a little voice in the back of my head told me to get these. I’m glad I listened. Filled with cabbage, carrots and vermicelli noodles, they were warm, savory and delightful, a perfect little snack. The house noodles, served in a savory sauce and mixed in with a vegetable medley, were delicious as well, but more similar to the lo mein than I had expected. That’s not a bad thing, but something to keep in mind if you’re looking for variety.

The fourth time I visited Harry & Shan, I was just in the mood for a snack, so I got the veggie gyoza ($6). Gyoza, a Japanese version of a Chinese dumpling called jiaozi, are small dumplings with thin, delicate skins and a rich filling. Although I preferred other dishes to this one, I have never met a dumpling I didn’t like, and the gyoza at Harry & Shan did not break that streak. They weren’t particularly filling, but they would make a good snack or accompaniment to other dishes.

Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine is unpretentious in the best way possible. It’s the kind of place you stumble upon or learn about through word of mouth — not through press fanfare, social media or snazzy advertising. (In fact, Harry & Shan’s social media presence is minimal; I could only find a Facebook page.) It’s the kind of place you’re proud to know about. It’s the kind of place part of you wants to tell the world about and part of you wants to gatekeep. Whether you’re looking for a quick, affordable lunch while you’re working downtown, a snack on a late Friday night (it’s open until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays) or a new go-to for Netflix binge nights, Harry & Shan Asian cuisine is the place for you.

Harry & Shan Asian Cuisine, 627 Main St., Downtown. More info: harryshanasiancuisine.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s June 25 print edition.

The post Review: Harry & Shan Serves Classic Chinese-American Dishes That Keep You Coming Back For More appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

Cincinnati’s Downtown district is revitalizing: more hip spots for dating, drinks out with friends, meetings with potential business partners and let-your-hair-down-worthy environments seek to make Downtown the place to be. 

Something to Wine About, a new addition to Downtown and the only self-pour wine bar in the district, aims to become the perfect spot for all of the above.

Opened on Dec. 7, Something to Wine About is owned by Orlando “Lando” Chapman, known in Cincinnati entertainment circles for owning RilEntertainment, which headlines several entertainment events, including the Old School Happy Hours, weekly events held for the 30-plus-year-old crowd of R&B aficionados. In short, Chapman knows how to entertain, and you can tell from the first step into Something to Wine About. The lounge space is filled with swoon-worthy mood lighting and beautiful pink, blue and purple couches arranged for groups to congregate. When you enter, to your left is the self-pour station and a sleek white bar, to the right is a cordoned-off VIP area, and at the very back are a stage and a gigantic TV. Smooth R&B music plays over the speakers. The appearance is that of an exclusive club, and with a staff so friendly and welcoming, you feel like a VIP.

If you don’t feel like sampling different wines at the self-pour station, you can get a full wine pour, bottle or cocktail at the bar. After a long, tiring day, I ordered a glass of Serena Sweet Red ($11 by the glass, $44 by the bottle), a stunning, sweet, effervescent Italian red. I was perhaps the only solo customer among a plethora of couples. The ambiance makes Something to Wine About perfect for date night, whether you’re meeting someone new or keeping the spark alive.

The second time around, my server recommended an off-menu pour of Vigneto Dolce Sweet Red ($10). Just my luck, the self-pour apparatus was on the fritz, and the tech was in California, but my servers kindly gave me a miniature wine tasting, including a sweet red and a sweet, refreshing Moscato d’Asti. The vibe in Something to Wine About is superb, in no small part due to the excellent staff.

In addition to delicious wines, Something to Wine About offers cocktails, and light bites (or “wine pairings”) ranging from a charcuterie board to light entrees like the jerk chicken rasta pasta to red velvet cake bites. What sets Something to Wine About apart from other wine bars is the self-pour station, inspired by the time Chapman and his wife spent in New Orleans, where they encountered similar lounges. At Something to Wine About, you get a reloadable card that you can swipe at the station to sample different wines straight from the spigot. It’s a self-guided wine tasting of sorts featuring both domestic and foreign wines from Italy, Portugal, South Africa and other countries around the world. Something to Wine About also highlights wines from Black-owned wineries, such as House of Brown in California, Markell-Bani in Cincinnati and Kumusha in South Africa. They also showcase the Eric Davis 44 Wine collection from Revel by Cincinnati Reds Hall of Famer Eric Davis; currently the Red bottle goes for $56 and can only be picked up in-store.

As can be expected from an establishment owned by a local entertainment mogul, Something to Wine About places a large emphasis on hosting events, including the weekly Something to Sing About karaoke event every Sunday from 4-7 p.m. Guests can take the stage and sing the song of their choice; despite my server’s encouragement, I did not take the stage. (Maybe next time.)

Something to Wine About has several wine memberships at various prices with loads of perks: monthly bottles from their in-house label, early access to events, members-only tastings, complimentary birthday gifts, a membership program and more. Whether you’re a casual wine sipper, a connoisseur or just looking for a new place for a night out, you’ll find style and comfort at Something to Wine About.

Something to Wine About is open from Wednesday to Sunday. Wednesday and Thursday hours are from 4-10 p.m., on Fridays and Saturdays it is open from 1 to 12 a.m., and on Sundays it is open from 4-7 p.m.

Something to Wine About, 136 W. 4th St., Downtown. More info: itssomethingtowineabout.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s April 30 print edition.

The post Review: Something to Wine About Elevates the Self-Pour Model with Date-Night Vibes and VIP Service appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

I wish I could regale you with an Anthony Bourdain-esque recounting of eating the freshest nigiri amid brooding world travels. I wish I could explain how my palate was forever changed after a visit to Tsukiji Fish Market. I wish I could honestly say that I haven’t indulged in $5 sushi Wednesdays (R.I.P.) at Kroger.

But, I can’t. I’m a simple gal; I appreciate the finer things in life, but sometimes, I like mayonnaise on my sushi and, when the opportunity presents itself, just a little bit of kitsch. The two combined? Irresistible. 

Kawa Revolving Sushi opened its second Cincinnati location last summer in Oakley. Finally succumbing to curiosity (and the stuff I see on YouTube), I decided to give the conveyor belt restaurant a spin.

Arriving at Kawa, I was led to a booth. Within its confines, the conveyor belt slowly spun away. Learning that it was my first time there, my server gave me the rundown. Near the conveyor belt was a little tablet, where I could place orders for drinks, appetizers, non-sushi entrees (including ramen) and dessert. To pay, I could use the tablet to tally up my order totals, and my server would separately count however many platters I snatched off the belt, each priced at $3.25.

I started by using the tablet to order a Shirley Temple (sure, I could have ordered a beer, but see above re: kitsch). I was truthfully expecting the most thrilling mocktail of my young adult life because I read that at Kawa, drinks are served by robots. I was, however, exclusively served by my human server, instead of the tray-laden robot that nonetheless zoomed by me numerous times. I tried not to take it personally. 

I did, fortunately, get served by a robot in a different capacity. While they weren’t exactly whizzing by, I was a little nervous about the mechanics of grabbing the little platters of sushi. I decided to buy myself some time by ordering appetizers: seaweed salad ($3.25), takoyaki ($5.45) and shrimp tempura ($6.99). All three were brought to me via a little rail right above the conveyor belt; a mix of plastic trains and trucks carted along my starters, announcing their arrival in a deadpan robotic voice.

The presentation of the seaweed salad left a little to be desired, with it looking a bit mushy, but it tasted fresh. I cautiously bit into my takoyaki, having been burned by volcanic dough liquid too many times to count, but was a little disappointed to find that they were lukewarm (I would have preferred to have been scalded). The tempura was a highlight — the log-like, piping-hot crustaceans and crunchy batter were delicious. 

Confidence built up, I turned to the conveyor belt, where two-piece plates of nigiri, three-piece plates of special rolls and four-piece plates of basic sushi meandered away. I gingerly grabbed a little tub of ginger from a passing bowl. Empowered, I reached for my first platter — the Dragon roll, with eel, cucumber, avocado and eel sauce. Amid my adrenaline rush, I saw eel nigiri, my personal favorite, scooting by in my peripheral vision, and snatched up a platter. Both were fresh and tasty, and I was ready for more. 

Having eaten enough California rolls to last me multiple lifetimes, I focused on Kawa’s special rolls. I alternated between grabbing platters and tapping through the tablet to find out exactly what I was eating. 

I sampled the Bengals roll, featuring shrimp tempura, crab meat, “crunchy flakes,” spicy mayo and eel sauce. This roll was pretty much swimming in toppings, and while it was good, and I knew what I was getting myself into when I pulled it off the belt, it was a bit heavy flavor-wise. I also tried the green soy paper-wrapped “Forest,” with shrimp tempura, avocado and asparagus, topped off with “lobster salad,” “crispy crab flake” and “creamy dressing.” Save for the crab flakes, I found this roll a little bland, but no one could argue that it hadn’t been just made in the kitchen from which the conveyor belt issued forth. Freshness at Kawa was definitely a no-brainer.

My absolute favorite was the Tiger roll, and not just because it was pink (but that didn’t hurt). The combination of tuna, salmon, yellowtail and avocado wrapped in (pink!) soybean paper was refreshingly subtle in comparison to the more mayo/tempura-ensconced options. 

If you can’t seem to find the sushi you want, or maybe get a little impatient, I’ll add that you have the option to order the same rolls slowly rolling by your shoulder via the tablet. And the sushi wasn’t the only food on the catwalk. I was passed by little cakes, bowls of fresh fruit, “Chef’s Special” dishes, salads and more.

The robot continued to pass me, too, playing funky little tunes to gracious customers and totally ignoring me.

It’s fine. I really don’t care.

I had wanted to try more — I had my eye on the Pink Lady (cucumber, salmon and avocado, topped with spicy tuna, spicy mayo and tobiko) and the Reds (shrimp tempura and asparagus, topped with spicy tuna, masago and spicy mayo) — but, in the name of research, I was already worried I’d overdone it. It was a bummer; looking back, I also would have loved to try some more of the nigiri.

I didn’t come to Kawa to eat the best sushi of my life. I just came to eat sushi. And the sushi turned out to be really good. The concept? Even better.

Kawa is a wonderful place for families, who can sit together at the booths, pick out sushi and be served by apparently selective robots (again, I really don’t care). It’s great for dates, where it’s just you, your significant other and food on all sides, with no need to worry about stalling conversation to look at menus.

And it’s perfect for parties of one, like me. I find that eating alone in public can sometimes feel awkward (even though I know it shouldn’t). At Kawa, not only are you in your own little sushi world, where everything you need as a solitary diner is pretty much within arm’s reach and situated in a comfy seating area, and where servers are always on standby to help. You’re probably enjoying the process a little too much to even notice any feelings of self-consciousness. 

It’s fun. It’s fresh. It’s niche. And the service – both human and otherwise – is all around excellent. I’d say give into the hype and try it at least once. 

If you go, my regards to the robot. 

Kawa Revolving Sushi, 3880 Paxton Ave., Oakley and 11381 Montgomery Road, Symmes Township. More info: instagram.com/kawa_revolving_sushi.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s March 5 print edition.

The post [REVIEW] Kawa Revolving Sushi Keeps Freshness and Fun in Rotation appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

Two veterans of prominent Cincinnati-area restaurants have teamed up to launch an Italian eatery in downtown Covington. Since Carmelo’s opened three months ago, diners have been flocking to its doors.

It’s become so immediately popular that I was surprised at how hard it was to get a reservation any later than 6 p.m., even mid-week. In January, no less — the slowest month of the year for most restaurants. And this was a particularly cold and snowy one. Impressive, I thought, before we had even a sip of a cocktail or a morsel of food.

Carmelo’s sits on a corner of Madison Avenue in downtown Covington, but the impressive interior belies its unassuming exterior. The front room includes a bar with several booths, and after that there are three separate dining rooms and an open kitchen. The dining areas are in parallel rooms, each about the same size, so that even with its tall ceilings there’s a sense of intimacy in each of the spaces. A host led us to our table in the room closest to the kitchen, and by the time we had food in front of us, every table in the restaurant had been filled.

In creating Carmelo’s, owners Mitch Arens (Carmelo’s chef) and Billy Grise have transformed an 1850s-era office building into a truly majestic place to enjoy an evening meal. The exposed brick walls, grand arches and soaring ceilings impart a sense of history, of permanence, that is uncommon for a local dining establishment. It might even be intimidating if the hosts and servers behaved in a formal, standoffish manner. But it struck me right away how truly generous and accommodating the staff we interacted with treated us. 

For instance, when I asked our server about some of the house cocktails, she said that if I ordered a drink and didn’t like it, she would bring a different one. She checked in several times throughout the meal to make sure we were happy with every dish or drink, doing so without hovering or interrupting our conversation. I eat out a lot, of course, and that level of solicitude is uncommon. And it doesn’t happen by chance, but results from the training provided by restaurant owners. 

“We are willing to train anyone, regardless of their previous work history, if they love taking care of people and really take pride in making people happy,” said Grise. He said they are committed to a workplace where “each employee gets a voice in how the restaurant is operated and managed [and] where we as owners will always put the employee’s well-being first, above everything else.” 

Respect for the individuals who make up a hospitality team is a hallmark of Greater Cincinnati’s best dining establishments, and it’s heartening that this restaurant has that commitment to true hospitality. Carmelo’s focus on staff training and nurturing is evident, and a harbinger of long-term success. 

But, of course, what comes out of the kitchen must excel, too. Fortunately, they seem to have a good handle on that, as well. 

The dinner menu presents sections labeled Shareables, Soups and Salads, Pasta and Entrees. I’m not a fan of the “shareable” trend in recent menu design, preferring the old-fashioned designation of appetizers, or starters, but, whatever you call it, that is usually my favorite part of most menus. And for me at least, that’s also where Carmelo’s kitchen really shone. 

We might have dipped too eagerly into those delicious starters, truth be told, making it harder to appreciate the larger plates to come. Along with cocktails, my companion and I relished three dishes — cauliflower, mozzarella and garlic soup — almost licking the plates. At least two or three other offerings in that menu section looked equally enticing, but we wanted to save some room for pasta or an entrée.

The cauliflower stood out. Pan-fried florets were enhanced with salty umami from a bit of anchovy, garlic, parsley and parmesan cheese. Creamy, acidic lemon-garlic mayo pulled it all together and sliced almonds added the crunch factor that, in my opinion, is necessary for almost any dish whether it be appetizer, entrée or dessert.

Next time, I will have to try the eggplant appetizer and/or one based on polenta and/or calamari. The garlic soup was milder than I expected, and it went down easily on a cold winter night. Genuine comfort food. The mozzarella is fresh and pulled to order, and comes with a very generous portion of grilled focaccia. I love grilled bread and could have finished it, most likely, but we had ordered another course, so I refrained.

I wanted to sample pasta from their menu and went with mushroom marsala casarecce, which is a twisted, short pasta well-suited to hold sauces. Other than a house-specialty lasagna (I’ve never been much of a fan of baked pasta dishes), other pastas include linguine with alfredo sauce, spaghetti and meatballs, and spicy shrimp with spaghetti. There’s also an oxtail ragu over rigatoni with “a mountain of Pecorino,” a preparation that sounds perfect for someone with a mountain of an appetite. That wouldn’t be me, and I’ve been cutting back on meat, anyhow.

Truthfully, after the wonderful starters, I didn’t have enough appetite to get through even half of the pasta. Even so, the dish would have benefited from a bit more sauce, or at least, more mushrooms. My companion flagged, as well, before he was able to finish the fish entrée, described as “a whole-roasted side of fish” (striped bass) that came in a classic, light sauce of brown butter, capers and lemon. The fish was tender and the sauce fragrant. Other entrees are chicken thigh stuffed with Italian sausage, grilled lamb sausage on panzanella salad, and eggplant parmesan.

We almost always order dessert, especially when trying a new restaurant, but we had to pass this time. Carmelo’s offers two options: a massive portion of their tiramisu, or a dish of gelato or sorbetto. The “after dinner” menu also includes an intriguing selection of dessert wines, an espresso martini and both Italian and American amari. But after cocktails and wine, we didn’t have room for those enticements, even though I’m generally very interested in learning more about amari.

It’s totally on us to have filled up on appetizers, but on our way out, I stopped by the host stand and suggested they consider offering half-orders of pasta. Later, it occurred to me that they might tweak the pasta choices now and then with something a bit more adventurous than meatballs, alfredo and spicy shrimp.

Carmelo’s owners and staff have created a spectacular setting and welcoming vibe for patrons to enjoy classic Italian cooking. With a location adjacent to Covington’s big development project on the former IRS site, this new restaurant promises to be destination dining for the foreseeable future. 

Carmelo’s, 434 Madison Ave., Covington. More info: eatatcarmelos.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s Feb. 19 print edition.

The post Covington Restaurant Carmelo’s Delivers Italian-American Comfort in Stunningly Reinvented Space appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

I have long slept on biscuits.

For more than half of my adult life, my understanding of “biscuits” was limited to the Pillsbury discs you have to aggressively wring a cardboard roll to get to. With experience, I learned that “biscuits” could also take the form of those much more pillow-y versions you could get at the Frisch’s breakfast buffet (gone, but never forgotten). I realized there was more to this world than mildly chalky bread frisbees from freezer-friendly packaging. 

But up until recently, I had yet to try what you might call a “real,” “classic” biscuit. So when I learned that chain Biscuit Love had opened a location downtown — its first outside the Southeast — I took it as a good opportunity to educate myself.

Biscuit Love began over 10 years ago as a food truck concept. Today, the family-owned franchise operates six spots across Tennessee, Alabama, and now, Ohio. 

I walked into the Pleasant Street location on a chilly, flurry-filled Friday around noon. I was immediately greeted by a small retail area and register, where you place your order before being seated. Despite it being lunchtime, the space wasn’t too crowded, and I was able to order pretty much immediately. 

Biscuit Love’s menu leans towards breakfast and brunch fare. The variety of biscuit dishes aside, the restaurant also offers grits bowls, waffles, granola bowls and other morning-centric dishes, alongside a selection of beverages, including fresh-squeezed orange juice and a small cocktail menu. Biscuit Love also has jars of its jam and take-home varieties of its signature biscuits for sale. 

Obviously a biscuit newbie, I decided to play it safe. Instead of following my heart, I followed the little doodle hearts printed on the menu designating “Customer Favorites.” I went for the “Princess” biscuit sandwich, featuring a “Nashville Style Spicy Boneless ‘Hot Chicken’ Thigh,” pickles, mustard and honey, but passed on the option of adding an egg for a $2.50 upcharge. I also opted for a side of stone ground cheese grits. Although not a customer pick, I found myself intrigued by the housemade brown sugar lemonade and ordered a cup. Their famous “Bonuts” – fried biscuit dough with sugar, lemon mascarpone and blueberry compote – also caught my eye. However, they only come in a “shareable” serving of five, and dining alone, I thought it wiser to limit myself and stuck with the savory dishes.

I sat at the table matching the number I was handed at the register. I could feel the copy of What Would Dolly Do? staring me down from the gift shop, wall art printed with the same question hanging nearby (alongside major holidays, Biscuit Love staff also get a day off in September for Dollywood Staff Appreciation Day). I enjoyed the ambiance; alongside the Dolly-bilia, stylized images of Cincinnati mingled with floral wallpapers and the floor-to-ceiling windows allowed sunlight to spill in and let me take in the snowfall. Had I not already reached my caffeine limit that morning, I would have loved to sit at the coffee bar in the back, which offers a selection of specialty lattes. 

My lemonade soon arrived. Much to my relief, it wasn’t the overly-sweet type. With a color as deep as apple juice (hello, brown sugar!), it hit that perfect tartness threshold. Even in spite of the cold day outside, it was incredibly refreshing. I couldn’t stop sipping and was comforted by the “free refills” note on the menu. 

My meal arrived soon after. The first thing I noticed was that the biscuit was square. Again, complete biscuit rookie here (“They can do that?”), and this had no impact on the flavor whatsoever. I’d just thought I’d put that out there to spare anyone else deceived by the Pillsbury Doughboy from being visibly surprised to the embarrassing degree I was.

Despite being advertised as a sandwich, I had to tackle the Princess with a knife and fork. I tore off a bit of the breading first, and once again had my expectations defied. The batter was airy and fluffy, and had a consistency more along the lines of tempura, instead of a harder crunch I was expecting of the fried chicken. It packed a slow-acting punch; the spice kicked in at the very last minute, and I was thankful I had ordered the lemonade.

In tandem with the pickles, honey and biscuit, the spice of the chicken became less potent. All elements combined made for what I’d call a cozy burn. The dark meat chicken was a great complement to the fresh biscuit, the greasy (in the best way) bites balanced out by the layers of soft, buttery, flaky bread. The tart pickles and sweet, runny honey were also great complements to the mix, although I wasn’t really picking up any of the mustard drizzled on top. For $13, I’d say it’s a hearty sandwich — but definitely not one you should expect to eat on the go. 

I absolutely loved the buttery, thick grits – they were delicious and another effective means of keeping the spice at bay. But an order is only a small saucer full. For the $4 asking price, I was scraping the plate in no time and left wanting more.

All in all, my meal was flavorful, fresh and filling. I appreciated the efficiency of service with the welcoming, sit-down atmosphere. I was in and out fairly quickly, yet I was still treated to a homestyle meal. My quest for biscuits certainly won’t stop at Biscuit Love, but I can see myself returning to try the other, more breakfast-y dishes — biscuit-related or otherwise — down the road. 

Biscuit Love, 1602 Pleasant St., Over-the-Rhine. More info: biscuitlove.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s Jan. 22 print edition.

The post [REVIEW] Biscuit Love Serves up a Delicious and Comforting Ode to the Biscuit appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

Sports bars are not a new concept to Cincinnati. Neither are innovative eateries with modern décor and creative flavor combinations. These concepts aren’t often seen together, but downtown’s newly-opened Vintage on Race dares to combine the two, with bold and delicious results.

Located in the Foundry building in the heart of downtown and a block away from Fountain Square, Vintage on Race catches your attention with a large, well-lit “V” sign, beckoning hungry visitors like a lighthouse. You enter the restaurant through a large, winding ramp leading to the host’s stand. The inside is spacious, airy and industrial with high ceilings and two bars, one at the very back and one toward the front, wrapping around a large cabinet and facing a stage. Except for a huge flat-screen TV and a wall devoted to memorabilia of Cincinnati’s sports teams, Vintage on Race looks like the bar of an upscale hotel.

Vintage on Race’s menus are a balance of innovative and unexpected flavors and combinations such as the creamy gochujang grits (which blends a Korean fermented soybean-based condiment and a Southern classic), balanced with old favorites such as biscuits and gravy or the classic Caesar salad. Vintage on Race adheres to the trappings of a sports bar and grill while elevating the classics and introducing new flavors. Both adventurous and cautious eaters will find something to enjoy at Vintage on Race. 

There are three menus: Dinner, brunch and drinks. The drinks menu is laid out as expected; there are categories for beer, wine, cocktails and happy hour specials. (There is also a limited but intriguing zero-proof section, for the designated drivers and those who don’t drink.) The brunch menu features cocktails, lunch items, game day items (a section focused on nachos and wings), bread-based items and sweets, eggs and sides that are both breakfast- and lunch-oriented. The dinner menu is divided into five categories: Shareables, greens, handhelds, plates and sides.

When I first visited Vintage on Race, I popped in to get an order to-go. While I waited I had a glass of Luccio Moscato D’Asti ($13 for a glass, $52 for a bottle). The wine was sweet, fruity and light.

To start, I had a citrus kale salad ($14), which includes kale, citrus dressing, cashews, shaved parmesan, dried cherries and oranges. I’ve never liked kale, but I like citrus and parmesan, and the combination of sweet and savory ingredients intrigued me. That combination was almost excellent but came just shy of hitting the mark. The oranges and dried cherries, however, were by far the highlight of the salad. The oranges were juicy, and the cherries were rich and flavorful.

I also had a side of the mac and cheese ($10). While so much of Vintage on Race’s menu is comprised of experimental flavor combinations, chef Robert Grace stuck with the basics with the mac and cheese — it was simple, creamy and tangy. The only twist was the use of shells instead of elbow macaroni, cavatappi and other common pasta shapes. If you’ve ever had Velveeta Shells and Cheese, this is sort of an elevated version of that.

The highlight of this visit, and perhaps of Vintage’s entire menu, was the whipped feta with sriracha honey, toasted naan and herbs ($16). Alternating between sweet, tangy and spicy, the whipped feta perfectly complemented the crunchy, crispy naan. I cannot overstate how delicious the whipped feta is. The whipped feta is in the “shareables” category, but trust me, you’re going to want to keep it all to yourself. The whipped feta alone is reason enough to visit Vintage on Race.

One cold December Saturday, I treated myself to Vintage on Race’s brunch. The restaurant was definitely in the Christmas spirit, with trees and tinsel all around and modern Christmas songs playing full-blast on the speakers. The space was surprisingly empty for a Saturday, although people filtered in after me; some of my fellow diners were SantaCon attendees in full SantaCon regalia, adding to the Christmas spirit. The choice was difficult, as the brunch menu is filled with intriguing options, but I went with sangria, the classic benedict, and my favorite, the whipped feta. The sangria ($12) is a mix of red wine, pineapple, vanilla, a citrus blend and prosecco, and the citrus blend is the dominant flavor. The classic benedict dish ($14) was a delicious, simple take on a breakfast favorite, with eggs covered in a creamy hollandaise sauce atop an English muffin. (The classic benedict comes with Canadian bacon, but I had the dish without it.) The highlight was the hangover hash, a creamy, gooey, peppery ball of potatoes and cheese that would be sure to ease even the most brutal hangover.

For my third visit, I had a quick lunch at the bar. I started off with the Velvet Elvis ($15), a seasonal cocktail comprised of Bulleit bourbon, strawberry, cinnamon, ginger and a lemon wedge that I picked as much for the name as for the flavors. (I’ve always been an Elvis fan.) The predominant flavors were strawberry and bourbon. 

To eat, I had the creamy gochujang grits ($7). Before I tried the gochujang grits, I wondered what had inspired the chef to combine Korean and Southern flavors. After trying the savory, creamy and subtly spicy dish, all I wanted to know was why nobody had thought of that sooner.

While Vintage has varied and interesting offerings in all meals, the sides and shareables are where the menu really shines. Whether you’re looking for something familiar, an introduction to new flavors, or a gathering place for good vibes, Vintage on Race has you covered.

Vintage on Race is currently open from 11 a.m. to midnight on Monday through Friday and from 10 a.m. to midnight on Saturday and Sunday.

Vintage on Race, 500 Race St., Downtown. More info: vintageonrace.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s Jan. 8 print edition.

The post Review: Vintage on Race is a Delicious Addition to Downtown appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.

It took me only one visit to find my go-to dish at Sudova. Called Pelmeni, it is one of two dumpling plates and, as far as I can tell, the restaurant’s homepage has a lovely photo of this meal. The website photo shows a plate more artfully arranged than the one I enjoyed, with a generous dab of caviar and lots of pretty, edible flowers as garnish, but I am fairly sure the restaurant is showing off its Pelmeni.

I went back another time and tried the same dish. My companion ordered it, too, and loved it as much as I did. The fragrant preparation reminded me of my mother’s chicken and dumplings, mostly because the dumplings had the same toothsome texture as Mom’s did. Sudova stuffs theirs with salt cod and potato brandade, and there is no chicken in sight. Caviar beurre blanc provides a light, slightly salty and totally satisfying sauce.

Rye varenyky is the second dumpling entrée. (Pelmeni and varenyky are types of Ukrainian or Russian dumplings akin to pierogi.) These dumplings are stuffed with potato, sauerkraut and caramelized onion; it is vegetarian and would be vegan without the dill sour cream topping. I bet this preparation is as delicious as the one I fell for.

On the web, Sudova announces itself as an “Eastern European Kitchen,” which may be an unfamiliar cuisine to many Cincinnatians. Although this is owner Sarah Dworak’s first full-scale restaurant, she has been cooking Ukrainian and other Eastern European treats in our city for more than 10 years. Her first venture was a pierogi stand at Findlay Market, followed a few years later by the adorable Wódka Bar on Main Street in OTR. (Sadly for its many fans, the Wódka Bar closed this fall.) Now she is putting all her energy into this new venture on Court Street.

I walked past the place the first time I went looking for the tucked-away restaurant. Its entry sits back from the street beyond a pleasant grouping of patio tables. Dworak’s team rehabbed an old building that had not been in use for decades. The result of what must have been a challenging buildout is an inviting dining room and bar that combines contemporary and traditional décor. Sleek, dark tables without tablecloths and cool, dark green banquettes contrast with the imposing, elaborate hutch behind the bar. Some of the walls are quite plain, adorned only with sconce-style light fixtures, while another wall near the front door holds framed artwork and what appears to be the owner’s personal memorabilia.

Sudova has been a hit from the get-go, with reservations not always easy to get unless you plan ahead. With colder weather upon us, the patio tables will not be available for much longer, further reducing your chances of dining there on short notice. But they will also reserve bar seats, a nice option if tables are unavailable.

As for the Eastern European menu, Google would be a helpful dinner companion at Sudova. Descriptions are minimal, and although the servers and bartenders provide helpful explanations of the less familiar dishes, I hated to slow them down by asking too many questions. When I later looked up, for instance, kulebiaka (a savory pie, served here with a salmon and mushroom filling) or halushki (originating in Slovakia and the Czech Republic, a casserole often made with bacon and noodles, but Sudova’s is vegetable-based, with spaetzle), I almost wished I had swapped the dumplings for one or more of those delicacies.

On one visit, I tried the seasonal borsch. I missed the summer version by a couple of days, and the bartender lamented that it had gone off the menu. I am sure it or something like it will return in warmer weather. Instead of summer “Green Borsch,” served warm with chicken, sorrel, root veggies and soft-boiled egg, Sudova now serves a more traditional and quite delicious cold soup based on red beets.

For starters — listed as small plates — there is a green salad with golden beets, fennel and buckwheat, which unfortunately was mostly lettuce and had few bits of those other ingredients. A warm bean appetizer called Kvasolya didn’t work for me as a starter; despite the ingredients list of roasted pepper, leeks and Bulgarian feta, it was just a plate of seasoned beans. I thought it might have been perfect if tossed with the salad, simultaneously making the greens more interesting and lightening up the heavy beans.

Holubsti (stuffed cabbage) had a sweet tomato sauce and meat stuffing. My partner thought the sauce was too sweet, and for me, the dish was too meaty. But we both enjoyed sharing one of the large plates, a risotto made with buckwheat instead of rice, its savory flavor coming from wild mushrooms, pearl onions and pecorino cheese.

The glass wine pours include a wide-ranging geographic set of choices. Selections from Austria, Hungary, Slovenia and Turkey join more familiar varietals from France and Italy — with California notably missing. Even by the bottle, Sudova listed only one pinot noir from California. This is not criticism, as I love adventurous wine lists and relish the chance to explore the unknown when it comes to wine.

In a comfortable and welcoming space, Sudova adds an exotic flair to Court Street, itself fast becoming a premier dining destination. A block or two away, in front of Court Street Kitchen, weekend valet service is available no matter where you intend to spend your evening. Sudova is small and in high demand at the moment, so do try to plan ahead for your taste of Eastern Europe.

Sudova, 22 W Court St., Downtown. More info: instagram.com/sudovaoncourt.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s Dec. 11 print edition.

The post Eastern European Comfort Food Finds a Home at Sudova (REVIEW) appeared first on Cincinnati CityBeat.